至于大背情理，可为人心世道之忧者，则零拼碎补之服，俗名呼为“水田衣”者是已。衣之有缝，古人非好为之，不得已也。人有肥瘠长短之不同，不能像体而织，是必制为全帛，剪碎而后成之，即此一条两条之缝，亦是人身赘瘤，万万不能去之，故强存其迹。赞神仙之美者，必曰“天衣无缝”。明言人间世上，多此一物故也。而今且以一条两条，广为数十百条，非止不似天衣，且不使类人间世上，然则愈趋愈下，将肖何物而后已乎？
推其原始，亦非为意为之，盖由缝衣之奸匠，明为裁剪，暗作穿窬，逐段窃取而藏之，无由出脱，创为此制，以售其奸。不料人情厌常喜怪，不惟不攻其弊，且群然则而效之。毁成片者为零星小块，全帛何罪，使受雨磔之刑？缝碎裂者为百衲僧衣，女子何辜，忽现出家之相？风俗好尚之迁移，常有关于气数，此制不昉于今，而昉于崇祯末年。予见而诧之，尝谓人曰：“衣衫无故易形，殆有若或使之者，六合以内，得无有土崩瓦解之事乎？”未几而闯氛四起，割裂中原，人谓予言不偶中。方今圣人御世，万国来归，车书一统之朝，此等制度，自应潜革。倘遇同心，谓刍尧之言不甚訾谬，交相劝谕，勿效前颦，则予为是言也，亦犹鸡鸣犬吠之声，不为无补于盛治耳。
David Pollard 译：
Pleasant Diversions: Clothes
Li Yu
The kind of clothing that offends against right and reason, and
make one fear for the state of the nation, is that made of odd
pieces patched together, popularly known as ‘paddy field
dresses’.
Clothes have seams not because our forebears liked making them, but because there is no alternative. Given that people’s bodies come in a variety of shapes and sizes, cloth cannot be woven to fit the figure, it has to be made in whole bolts, which are then cut up and the pieces tailored. Hence the one or two seams that result can be compared with outgrowths or swellings on the body: there is absolutely no way to remove them, so we have to put up with their existence. When people praise divine workmanship, they are sure to use the expression ‘a seamless robe, made in heaven’. That shows that on earth, by contrast, we are stuck with the extra of a seam. But nowadays the one or two seams have been increased to dozens and scores, making clothes not only unlike heavenly robes but unrecognizable as human apparel. Yet the trend still goes from bad to worse: one shudders to think what the clothes will end up looking like.
If one traces the source of this trend, it seems it arose not by deliberate design, but from the crafty of tailors. They cut off bits of cloth allegedly for shaping purposes, but on the quiet for their own filching. Having stolen strip after strip and hidden them away, they invented this new product to get them off their hands, and making a killing from their duplicity. Oddly enough, people proved to prefer the bizarre over the usual: they not only did not criticize the abuse, they fell over themselves to take up and imitate the style. Whole cloth was ravaged to yield little bits and bobs. What sins had those whose bolts of cotton and silk committed that they should have suffered the punishment of a thousand cuts? When the scarps were sewn together they made a monk’s habit of a hundred patches. What sins were those women guilty of, that they should look as if they had renounced the world?
Changes in fads and fashions are often related to the fortunes of the state. This fashion in clothing did not dawn in the present; its dawn was in the last years of the Ming dynasty. At the time I was astounded by it, and said, ‘There must be dark forces at work for clothes to change their style without reason. Is the empire on the point of falling apart?’ Before long generals rose in rebellion on all fronts, and the homeland was torn asunder. People said my prophecy had, alas, proved true. Now that a sage emperor wields the scepter, the sundry principalities have submitted to his rule, and normality has been restored in the nation’s manners and standards, this kind of outlandish apparel should by rights quietly fade from the scene.
If I am fortunate enough to encounter like-minded persons who do not scorn a country yokel’s talk, but join in remonstrating with womanhood not to imitate the ugly sisters in their dress, then in writing this piece, though it may sound like cocks crowing and dogs barking, I will have made some slight contribution to the civilization of this our glorious age.
青春就应该这样绽放 游戏测试：三国时期谁是你最好的兄弟！！ 你不得不信的星座秘密